What features should the Best vacuum for pet hair include ?

If you own a pet, then you can perfectly understand the love people have for them. They are loyal friends, they always show love and compassion, and they never hold a grudge. If all people were as good as dogs, the world we live in would be an entirely different place. But until then, we are happy to have pets at least.

However, a dog or a cat is not just a furry friend that is always there for you. They also represent a responsibility, just like a child. You have to feed them, provide medical care when necessary, and last, but not least, clean up after them. The latter is the most frequent, and trust me; it is not so easy. There is fur everywhere. On the furniture, on your clothes, on the rugs, and in any other place, you can think of. I can relate to that. My dog leaves hair everywhere, and it is annoying at times. That is why I wanted to talk to you about an item that changed the way I look at pet hair. It is a vacuum for pet hair that will make your life and house fur-free.

Why not a regular vacuum cleaner?

No matter how efficient is your current vacuum cleaner, it will never be able to remove pet hair as a device that was specially designed for that. It’s like trying to wash clothes in the dishwasher. The most prominent difference between vacuum for pet hair and a regular one lies with the brush.

When you clean your carpets, for example, with a regular vacuum cleaner, the brush will not reach the depth of the fibers to remove everything that is tangled in there. But, as you may well be aware of, pet hair penetrates the carpet in a different way than dirt does. A regular brush will only push the hair further into the fibers.

A vacuum for pet hair, on the other hand, uses a unique brush made of silicone that, instead of pushing the hair more into the carpet, brings it to the surface, where it will be sucked into the vacuum. Special attachments are also available, according to the type of carpet you have.

Another reason why you should go for a vacuum cleaner for pet hair is that they tend to have a stronger suction. Manufacturers are aware how difficult it is to remove pet hair from all kinds of fiber, carpet or upholstery, which is why they designed vacuums that have powerful suction and enhanced infiltration.

If I were you, which I was at some point, I would go for one of those. I did, and it was the best decision I ever made. Before purchasing a vacuum for pet hair, I was always struggling to remove my dog’s hair from the couch and carpets. It would eventually come off, but I had to spend a lot of time to be thorough. I wasted enough time on that, and I made my purchase in anger. As it turned out, it wasn’t a bad decision after all. Why struggle when you have an easy solution? Why spend hours on end to remove pet hair, when you can simply use the vacuum as if nothing is too hard to come off?

What to consider when looking for the best vacuum for pet hair

Although there are many models available on the market, purchasing a vacuum for pet hair should not be made without careful consideration. I say that because many aspects make this item the best vacuum for pet hair. Buying the first one you see it’s not the best idea. So here is what you need to consider.

  • Consider the surface you need to vacuum. If you live in a big house, then you should consider buying an upright model. The dirt container is large enough to gather the hair from the entire house, and the cleaning won’t last as much as with a small design. However, if you live in a small apartment, then a handheld model should be enough. You don’t have to waste valuable storage space a big vacuum because these models usually can be hanged on a wall, so the required storage space is minimal.
  • Keep in mind that a house a has multiple surface areas that need to be cleaned. The upholstery, the carpets, the curtains, and the floors require different suction techniques. If your entire house is carpeted, then you shouldn’t have a tough time finding the ideal vacuum, but if you have multiple kinds of surface, then you need one that will handle all of them. It’s not difficult; you just need to search carefully.
  • What is your preference? An upright vacuum, handheld, or canister? Each of these designs come with their advantages and disadvantages, but ultimately, it is you who has to decide. It depends on what you feel comfortable with.
  • Bagged or bagless? The most popular vacuum is the bagless one. I prefer that one too. Bags are difficult to clean; if you don’t wash them regularly the vacuum will release a bad smell, and not to mention the dust. When I had to get rid of all that dust, I thought I was going crazy. It never really went away. But the bagless design has a plastic container that is easy to empty and wash. Of course, you need to clean the filter now and then, but it beats handling the bag.
  • Cord or cordless? If you live in a big house, then I wouldn’t recommend the cordless vacuum for pet hair. The battery will not last enough time for you to finish cleaning the whole house. But it’s ok if you have a small apartment.
  • Accessories should not be overlooked. Preferably, you should go for as many accessories as possible. The house is full of crevices and other spaces or surfaces that need special attention. Look for a vacuum that comes with a crevice tool, upholstery head, power brush, extension tool, dusting tool, or whatever else you can find. They can’t hurt.

I can honestly say that I value a high-quality vacuum for pet hair. I can get the fur out of my house, and out of my car, of course. It comes in handy when you don’t have a lot of time on your hands, and your house will look as if there weren’t any pets around. You get to enjoy the presence of your beloved furry friend without dealing with all that hair all over the place.

Top 2 Best vacuum for pet hair

1. Miele Complete C2 Canister

Miele Complete C2 Limited Edition Canister for Dog Hair
Miele Complete C2 Limited Edition Canister for Dog Hair

1 reason we have recommended this C2 model as our budget pick rather than the less expensive C1 Olympus is that it includes two-floor attachments instead of one! That makes it more flexible, and much more of a bargain!

It works really well on low to medium-pile carpeting, and it is superb at beating out carpets. Unless you try using it on the really deep stack, it does not get stuck or bogged down.
Another floor head is a flexible tool for hard surfaces and carpets. It switches conveniently between the hard floor setting, which has protective brushes, and the carpet setting, which includes a metal gliding plate that will assist you to skim along your carpets without scraping them getting stuck.

Both flooring heads are super ergonomic, and they swivel quite well at the joints. That is something that we really appreciate when we are cleaning up after pets because it allows you to get under furniture and into tight spots easily.

This C2 vacuum includes an active filter system within the canister! It’s precisely what you need for coping with allergens. The air system is totally sealed, and the seams capture 99.9percent of particles from the combined filter bags.

We believe Miele’s combined filter bags are among the best features on the market at the moment. They’re easy, convenient, and effective. You simply have to change 1 part, and the bags seal themselves since they are removed. They’re the best we have seen at featuring pet dirt and dirt, and they are far more convenient than bags of yesteryear.

It is extremely quiet.

That makes it easy to select the amount that suits what you are cleaning. You can go gentle on drapes and upholstery or flip things to the max to catch cobwebs or undertake to a carpet.

Each of the attachments is well-made and simple to use.

It is nice and compact. The C2 Series canisters have smaller bodies that are more suitable for stairs and in other tight spots. While this is a little vacuum, we love that you could store the attachments inside!

Miele vacuums are created completely in Germany, and they have an excellent reputation for reliability. The extension wand is made of rugged steel, as well as the casing on the cylinder is super dense plastic. The motor is covered by a 7-year warranty, and the remainder of the vacuum is covered with a 1-year warranty.

The bad thing, it isn’t HEPA-certified. While the filtration system meets Miele’s very high standards, it isn’t officially examined by the HEPA institute. We think that it’s mainly a difference of formality because both filter types remove 99.9 percent of airborne particles. If you would like the HEPA certification, look at the Dyson Ball or the Miele Titan below!

It is the least expensive vacuum in this manual, but it is still cheaper than other vacuums on the market. We believe this is the very least you can pay for a really capable pet allergy vacuum, however. Cheaper canisters just are not reliable or durable long-term.

2. Dyson Animal Upright

Dyson advertise that Animal has the maximum suction of any upright vacuum on the market! We can not confirm their results, but suffice it to say that this does have mad good suction! It utilizes Dyson’s cyclonic system, which is both stronger than conventional vacuum systems and much more capable of separating particles and keeping dirt and dust from the filters.

Because of this, you get the power that’s higher to start with, and which remains high because the filters are not choking the vacuums air feed. Overall, it is an excellent suction system, which reviewers were delighted with. Many reviewers found that it pulled out a lot of hair and dust from carpets they had just washed using their old machine! We don’t believe you will find anything lacking in the power department!

It’s a large turbine inside, as with other upright vacuums. The brush head spins through air power, but it still scrubs about and any motorhead (besides Miele’s). This new version does a much better job than the previous creation at staying un-stuck, which was the significant flaw in the plan.

It adapts to your flooring automatically as you vacuum to make a tight suction seal.

This is also among the most maneuverable upright vacuums we have ever reviewed! It is all based on Dyson’s ball program, making for effortless steering in a tight radius. It is super light, too!

This Animal model also has an air-powered turbine tool for scrubbing pet fur and dirt from carpeted stairs or furniture upholstery! The Miele Upholstery tool is merely a slice of velour, which works nicely, but can not scrub like this one. The turbine tool is advertised as tangle-free, and we have found that it is one of the only ones who live up to that claim! The main floor suction Mind also does an excellent job at staying free of tangles.

It is all airtight, with a sealed system and HEPA-grade filter. The Dyson will capture fine allergens without discharging any into your atmosphere. Many buyers noted the absence of dust or odor in their environment after cleaning!

It is bagless, with a dust chamber which comes with a sanitary trapdoor disposal program. You just lower it in the trash can and discharge the base of the canister. The upright format provides far more room for pet hair than the Miele canisters, too!

As it doesn’t have any bags and includes a washable filter, there will not be any replacement costs for this particular machine!

It is covered with a 5-year warranty.

Puppy Diaries No. 6: Talk or not feed (6 months)

Puppy Diaries No. 6: Talk or not feed (6 months)

Dear Diary,
Sommer is now six months old, and he has entered terrible teenage months. I came to some of my horror to find out that the “teenage” phase lasts a long time — from six to 18 months. Just yesterday, I had a common experience with Pup Mom with my recently teenage dog. When I unpacked the new coffee machine on the living room floor, Sommer enjoyed playing with the cardboard and packaging materials. Turning my attention to my husband for a few minutes of conversation, I turned back to the coffee maker and found that the cord was chewed into pieces.

Well, she's cute.

Now that Sommer is six months old, we are not only in the rebellious teenage years, but we also reach the age when many veterinarians advise ovarian removal (removal of the ovaries, uterine tubes and uterus in women) or sterilization (removal of the testicles for men). Between six and nine months is considered the optimum age for these procedures by many veterinarians. However, this is just a recommendation, as dogs under eight weeks of age can be sterilized if they are healthy and dogs can be sterilized as adults, although there is a higher risk of postoperative complications when the dogs are older or if they are overweight or other health problems.

To be honest, I began my research on the pros and cons of Sommer's sterilization, which tends to sterilize it. First of all, I do not want to become a mom of puppies for litter of new puppies. I filled my hands with what I have! Secondly, the shelters are full of unwanted dogs. Any puppies that Sommer could have, even if I placed them in houses, would aggravate the problem of over-population of pets in this country, and that would mean fewer houses available to dogs in shelters.

Here is the reality: if we had all sterilized or castrated our pets, the situation with the shelter in this country would be completely different. However, I wanted to make sure that I understood the pros and cons of sterilization and sterilization.

I was fascinated to learn that some dog owners are against this procedure. What could be the disadvantage? During the study, I discovered that there are many myths and not many facts supporting the arguments against the procedure.

One common argument against sterilization and sterilization is costs. I spoke to our veterinarian and found out that the cost of sterilization is about $ 500, which will be covered by our insurance. This cost can be prohibitive if you do not have insurance. However, given the cost of having a litter and then providing care to ensure that the mother and the litter are healthy during a two month pregnancy and two months when the puppies are breastfeeding before weaning, only medical care can be provided. expensive – especially if there are any complications. Sterilization or sterilization, on the other hand, is a one-time fixed price.

The second argument that I opened (and the one that I felt held the least water) is what I call the argument of "masculinity." It looks like this: your dog will somehow be less than a dog and will lose its masculinity when it is castrated. Well, then I had to ask myself, why not consider a vasectomy? Does the dog really feel less masculine without testicles? Dogs do not have ego, which makes it impossible. The argument of masculinity seemed to me to be a person conveying his feelings to an animal.

The third argument, often cited against sterilization or sterilization, is that dogs get overweight after the procedure. I did further research, but I found little hard evidence to prove it. Many veterinarians say that the most common cause of overweight and obesity in dogs is the lack of exercise and overfeeding.

Interestingly, the use of sterilization alternatives is currently under discussion in the veterinary community, in particular, hysterectomy (removal of the uterus, but the ovaries remain intact) and vasectomy (rupture of tubes that carry sperm from the testicles). Sterilization and sterilization times are also discussed to minimize some of the potential adverse effects of sterilization. Veterinarians say there may be an argument for waiting up to one to three years, when animals are considered adult and mature.

As in many life decisions, I remembered what my parents said in childhood: the best violation is a good defense. For me, sterilization or sterilization is the best protection against unwanted litter, even if you are the most responsible pet owner on the planet. The fact that you are the responsible owner of a non-sterilized or non-sterilized pet does not mean that all pet owners who make the same decision are also responsible. Your unspattered bitch may become pregnant by a less responsible host dog. Or your dog may soak the dog less responsible owner. In any case, you, as the responsible owner of the dog, may well pay the price for the irresponsibility of the other owner – an unwanted droppings.

Post Puppy Diaries # 6: “Talking or not talking” (6 months) first appeared on PetPlace.

Puppy Diaries # 8: Mastering Puppy's Perfect Social Interaction

social interaction puppy

Dear Diary,

Now that we have dealt with this during the first seven months and have become the eighth month of Sommer, I found that most of my time and workouts are focused around improving her behavior. And by “refinement,” I mean “trying to make her behavior pleasant to other people … and dogs.” I do not add "dogs" lightly. One of the main problems we face is that, although she loves people, she is not so sure about her dogs. I understood She is smaller than most dogs, and, as we all know, this is the world of dog food. However, part of growing up is facing your fears and gaining confidence in the process, right? This month, I decided to engage in social interaction with puppies so that Sommer and I could walk freely and explore the world. Being an eight-month-old puppy, Sommer needs an exercise, so I was excited to put on the agenda a park for dogs without a leash, dates with puppies and pleasant long walks in our area. Boy, I was ever surprised when the events that I had been looking forward to since she became a tiny puppy turned out to be one of the most difficult that I have ever had to cope with!

When friends told me about our local dog park without a leash, I thought that we had found nirvana. I have never visited other dog parks, so I have nothing to compare with, but when I explored it on the Internet, I discovered that it is completely fenced and has an area of ​​18 acres, and hiking trails surround a grove of tall oaks. On that day, when we first arrived, I stopped in the parking lot and counted four parked pickups with an extended cab, which gave me the feeling that this was the place for sporting and sporting puppies who regularly washed pheasants. But I was excited to check it out, and I was ready with my leash bags and poop at the ready. Moreover, I prepared myself to become the borderline between being the neurotic parent of a helicopter dog and keeping a close eye on Sommer.

Unfortunately, what I prepared was not what I encountered. About 15 pounds, Sommer is a small dog, and for larger sporting dogs, she seemed to look like something funny to hunt for. In her first encounter, she was sniffed by a big Goldendoodle, who scared her and began to run in frightened circles, barking at ever higher altitudes. Goldendoodle took off in hot pursuit. The faster Sommer ran and the more she barked, the more the dog chased her. The dog definitely did not give her the message "Stay away, I do not like it." No, what kicked was the dog's booty engine. Finally, I was able to pick her up and take her back to the car.

The next time we visited this place, I noticed that she was visibly trembling, but that was the norm: she was trembling with nerves when we went to the vet, the dog kindergarten groomer and even the pet store. During our second visit, we had fun, but she always seemed on the verge. I liked it because she got a lot of fresh air and exercise, and so did I. During our third visit, she had another encounter with a larger dog, and I began to question the wisdom of our exercises. I consulted a trainer who shook me, saying that under no circumstances should we return to the dog park. She warned that small dogs can become aggressive by being placed in traumatic situations when they are puppies. “Have you ever passed a chihuahua sitting on the owner’s lap, and he automatically bares his teeth and growls at you, even if you didn’t do anything, didn’t even come close to him?” She asked me. I nodded. "This is what can happen if you continue to walk to the dog park." Needless to say, we never returned.

Playdates for puppies were another activity that seemed to be fun, but turned into a difficult adventure for parents. We have a very kind and patient neighbor, who has two mini gold astrakhan, which is about a year and a half older than Sommer. Although they are smaller than Sommer, Sommer’s typical behavior when meeting him was agitated non-stop barking and chase. As if she did with them what was done to her in the dog park. It was tiring, since I wanted to catch up with the neighbor while the dogs were playing, but we could barely hear each other because of the rumbling of the incessant barking of Sommer.

Puppies Diaries No. 7: expenses for the first year – myths and reality (6-7 months)

puppy's first year worth

Dear Diary,

This month, after I calculated the Sommer’s medical expenses, I was inspired to further torture (haha), summing up all the expenses of Sommer’s first year, including medical expenses. I started by thinking where and how I spent the money this year. Fortunately for this exercise, we used several suppliers to meet most of our needs, so it was easy for me to simply call each place, whether it be a pet store or our store, to find out how much we spent. Again, as in the case of medical expenses, I relied on the wisdom of the Internet, as well as random friends, for an approximate figure of expenses for the first year. Guess what? I experienced another shock when I saw the numbers in black and white. Dogs are known to relieve stress, but they also require fiscal responsibility.

Myth: You can easily get a puppy and spend less than $ 1,000 in the first year.

Reality: Sommer's first year, by numbers

  • Health: 2440 dollars
  • Fence: 1700 dollars
  • Expenses at the pet store, including food, treats and chewing sticks; toys; collars and tags, harness and leashes; heartworm, flea and tick medication; box and playpen; dishes; beds: $ 1270
  • Meals and day care: 700 dollars
  • Care: $ 425
  • Training: 450 dollars
  • Carpet cleaning (due to accidents at home): $ 260

TOTAL $ 7,245

If I had postponed the costs of medical care and fencing, we would have more than halved our expenses to just over $ 3,000. And frankly, this amount is more in line with what I expect to spend on an annual basis in the future.

Many one-time expenses, such as a fence, and medical procedures, such as ovarian removal and vaccinations, are over. Many bugs mommy beginner behind me. I learned a lesson about how to leave things lying around the house, within reach of a puppy, and I sincerely hope that this will reduce the likelihood of any further visits to the hospital!

Even some major purchases at pet stores are over. We need to be tuned for a while about the box and the bed, the dishes, the collars and the leashes, the heartworm and the medicine for fleas and ticks. If you're lucky, the cost of cleaning carpets will also be reduced – although this can be overly optimistic, as there is always the likelihood of an accident or even a fiasco with dirty feet in the house. As for training, I plan to conduct walking lessons on a leash before her first year ends, but after that I expect that we will finish most of the paid training sessions, as I am now trained in how to train her. Now we have the task to continue to practice what we have learned in class.

So far, I give myself B- my efforts. Who knows, maybe I will decide to go for additional lessons this winter so that we can study in the long and cold months and be sure that we will not forget all that we have learned.

What I learned (hard way)

Do not rely on online cost estimates for the first year. These are myths! The reality is that you will probably spend twice as much as you think, so look at my expenses and budget accordingly. Many of these costs were somewhat fixed, but I wish I had a budget for discretionary items, such as treats, toys, and chewing sticks. It was too easy to pick up an extra toy during a search at the pet store or splurge on expensive chewing sticks when Sommer would also be pleased with a less expensive option. We, mom puppies, love our puppies! And this is good. Therefore, although the occasional ruin would be quite normal, I could cut them a little if I had given myself the parameters of the budget.

Lessons learned from my vet

  • At this seven-month age, your puppy may move from one extreme behavior to another. Sommer would be quite sure at one point, and then next time he would jump on the sound of a postman's truck. This is normal!
  • Teaching your puppy how to deal with its fears and problems is of paramount importance at this age. You do not need a dog, which is sealed with constant fears about the experiences at this age.

My favorite articles

Puppy Diary Series: sit, stay, play

Join our resident Pup Mom on her paternal journey in the Puppy Diaries series.

  • Puppy age: 0-8 weeks
  • Puppy age: 8-12 weeks
  • Puppy age: 12-16 weeks
  • Puppy age: 16-20 weeks
  • Puppy age: 20-24 weeks
  • Puppy age: 24-28 weeks

About puppy diaries

“Puppy Diaries” is a continuous series that explores the way of paternity of domestic animals: from making a decision to acquire a puppy to his return home, to the joys and difficulties of learning, and so on. Laura Tibert, our resident Pup Mom, is an experienced publicist and first-time puppy parent who lives in Minnesota with her husband, two sons and a new puppy.

Puppy Diaries # 9 Mastering the puppy-man ideal social interaction

social interaction puppy with man

Dear Diary,

It's already the ninth month, and Sommer is growing up. She still has limitless energy, but she is less hyperactive than a few months ago. She begins to look less like a little puppy and looks more like a reckless teenager with awkwardly big legs that are too big for her body. She runs very fast and loves to run around the yard, easily chasing our boys, and then barking for joy when she catches them. Problems with minor training are mainly related to the rear-view mirror, although occasional attacks of diarrhea are always possible, and I am still very friendly with our local carpet cleaner. Sommer's face is so expressive at this age! Her eyes are bright, and she looks at me in a direction, trying to please. In our house she has a routine and she understands the rules: you don’t need to jump in a good chair, ring the doorbell, go out, do not surf and so on. I think you could say that she trusts us now, and I trust her (most of the time, although after the episode of chewing on Advil, I try very carefully to keep her away from things that may cause her trouble). But when does the doorbell ring? This is when all bets on workouts are turned off.

We have an active household, in which two sons, friends, family and sports chairs, music teachers, lawn masters and experts regularly come to the house. All this makes the house happy, and Sommer loves to welcome guests. But do guests like when Sommer greets them? In the beginning, the answer was definitely "no." And I can't say I blame them. I do not like a dog that jumps on me when I go to someone's house, and, being a small dog, Sommer seems to be particularly prone to jumping. It is in her nature to want to rise to the human level. She is also prone to excited barking, another habit that turned greetings at the door into a real challenge. This was one of the things that worried me most about the presence of a dog, so we decided to hire one of the trainers who conducted the Sommer puppies group training lessons to come to our home to diagnose the problem and assign a solution.

The trainer has perfectly demonstrated that door greetings are indeed one of the biggest problems. She advised to use the method in which we put the dog bed next to the door, but not next to the door, and said “go to bed” when the doorbell rang. I had to stand next to the bed and treat Sommer while she stayed on the bed. The idea was for the guest to come in and then pass by the bed and greet Sommer, or not greet Sommer — everything the guest wanted. Whether it was my lack of proper execution or just a splash of a Sommer puppy, although we worked on these months, both in real-life scenarios and in trials where the boys went outside and rang the bell, Sommer never did it. She “went to bed”, but as soon as I gave her one small treat, she grabbed him and ran out of bed to jump onto the person at the door. To answer the door was to work with two people, as I was stuck, calling for “go to bed” and standing by the dog’s bed, while one of the boys had to answer the doorbell — and they were not always at home to play this the role, I thought Sommer might catch on and stay in bed while I walked to the door, but, alas, the promise of a new person to welcome was too overwhelming and actually seemed more tempting than any treat I could offer.

We returned to the “sound” collar (note: we will only use an unstressed collar). One day, visiting my parents in their home, Sommer came to herself with excitement when she saw my parents every morning, as if she had never seen them before. It turned into a great opportunity to put on her pip collar and teach her not to jump greetings. the ruleWe diligently showed her that when she bounced on them in an excited greeting, this would lead to a “beep”. When she stayed, with all four paws on the ground, my parents took care to give her a lot of pets and “Good girl” praise. The idea seemed to come to mind. After returning home, the only trick to continue this method successfully was to make sure she was in a collar when guests came to the house, or in the case of an unexpected visitor, that the collar was ready at the door so that I could quickly put on her.

Puppy Diaries # 10 Mastering the perfect puppy walk

walking puppy

October 30, 2018 Laura Tibert, puppy mom

Dear Diary,

Sommer is ten months old, and he is in full adolescence, that is, months. Joke on me, because now I have a real teenager in the house, plus a doggy one. Sommer becomes a free and independent thinker, just like her 15-year-old human brother. She takes turns enthusiastic and stubborn. In one minute, she rushes through the house with a case of “zooms,” as we call it, and the next she is afraid and capricious. She becomes more intelligent in her attempts to hack the system, does this mean that she is trying to sneak up on our bed at night (she is installed on her dog bed in our bedroom, but this does not seem close enough to her taste) or stupidly stare at me when I call “Come!” and then turning her back towards me and quietly running in the opposite direction. On the other hand, she is bright and happy and loves to learn new games. We are currently working on an "extraction" because, although she has some kind of Labrador retriever and some kind of golden retriever, the very idea of ​​taking the ball and returning it to me so that I can again throw it seems alien to her. Chasing the ball? Well, in this it is natural. And she is fast. Which brings me to the question of the need to get her abundant exercise when walking.

At ten months, Sommer is no longer a little puppy. She is almost adult, and began to fill up her muscle tone. Even now, she weighs only 17 pounds. We thought she could reach 25 pounds, but it turns out that she takes after her 15-pound mom more than her 35-pound dad. It's good for me! But this poses some interesting problems associated with aggressiveness, as she well knows that she is smaller than most of the dogs she faces. And the time when we notice this most of all happens when we go for a walk, which seems to alternate between happy sniffing and terrible high barking, when the other dog throws us from its yard, barking as if it wants to kill us both ( although I see his tail wagging!).

In other words, walking with Sommer is great fifty percent of the time. The remaining fifty percent can use improvements.

The problem number one is that, being a puppy, Sommer has no idea how to regulate her walking. Then she twitches and twitches when she runs off to sniff something especially painful in the grass, and the next thing you know, she walked around my legs, and now I'm standing there still, like a potted plant thrown into the street. Fortunately, being a small dog, she is not strong enough to pull my shoulder out of the nest, and for that I am grateful to her. However, her worst habit of walking on a leash randomly and without warning crosses me, forcing me to try to stop, usually on tiptoes, stretching my arms outward, as if to break an impending fall. And no matter how bad this habit is, the worst walking incident that we have had so far has had nothing to do with Sommer and everything related to our winters in Minnesota. Last winter, I stumbled upon a patch of black ice that was disguised as a fresh layer of fluffy snow, and, like in a cartoon, my legs flew out from under me, and I fell on my back. Now, the blessing of this was twofold: first, nobody was there to see my humiliating glide; and secondly, I was wearing a massive down coat, including a hat and a giant puffy hood, which softened the fall. But the gist of the story is that Sommer thought it was fun. Sommer slowly come to the aid of dog care, jumping all over my prone body, thinking that this is a game. So in any case, if I can fall while walking, when Sommer behaves on a leash, imagine what could happen if she gets cut in front of me on one of those snowy days.

I decided to consult with Google to get expert advice on my dog ​​walking problems. From leading trainers, I realized that training on a leash is a pain, but it is worth it in the long run and is part of the training, which has a significant safety component – both for you and for your puppy. I learned that I should be the first outside the door, emphasizing that I am the leader, and that I should be the same. Another expert advised you to teach your puppy to sit patiently while you take off your shoes and hang them on a leash. It sounded very similar to what Mr. Rogers would have done, and I immediately implemented it. Good food or food at the end of the walk was another recommendation to emphasize to Sommer that she worked for her food. Experts recommended the morning as an ideal time for walking, from 30 minutes to one hour. That's where it's nice to have a little dog: thirty minutes is enough for her.

Diary of a puppy number 12: highs, lows and intervals of the first year of Sommer

puppy's first birthday

November 27, 2018 Laura Tibert, puppy mom

Dear Diary,

Soon we will celebrate the first birthday of Sommer. What a trip this year has been! From a pickup truck, when she picked her up at the coach’s house and watched her lovely squadrs tumbling around the pen, until the rush in which she was thrown into emergency hospital after eating Advil, I wouldn’t trade a single minute for this for the whole world (well, maybe I would trade the Advil incident). But just because Sommer is a year does not mean that we automatically wake up this morning to an adult, fully trained dog. No, I expect Sommer to behave like a puppy for a long time. Even physically, she can continue to change as she is still thin, and her vet says she can fill up a bit. She is almost a year old, her energy level is high, although less frantic than when she was tiny. In a sense, now that she has matured, she needs more exercise in the fresh air than when she was smaller and could run around the house and get tired in the process.

Even when we finish the last official month of puppies, Sommer demands a huge amount of my attention: she is not an independent type. I was told that this “man-man” tendency is a characteristic feature. I'm not sure if this is true for every dummy, but I can testify that Sommer wants to be with me every minute of the day, under any circumstances. If I get up from the couch and walk up to a chair five feet away, she gets up from the couch and walks over to the chair. She is not a fool. She is going to stay close to the pack leader!

That brings me to the night time, which was one of the biggest challenges this year. She had better sleep on her bed on the floor of our bedroom, but she still jumps on our bed at 5:45 in the morning. And this is not the only habit that we still have to break. She is still very excited when visitors come to our house. She is still walking timidly. She still goes berserk after a bath, looking around the house and making a series of sharp lights, because of which I cover my ears while she cries. There are days when she rings the bell to go out dozens of times a day. I open the door for her and she stands on the threshold and sniffs the air for the longest time, which drives me crazy! Then she looks at me with those big, expressive brown eyes, and it’s like a hug. The first year really was a journey from a puppy to love.

Sommer was born in a litter of four girls and one boy, and the first time the breeder sent the photos by e-mail, I knew that she was for us. In a miraculous way, although we were the last family to choose (that is, we did not choose, we took the puppy that we left after everyone else had chosen), we received it. This relationship has only strengthened and more sure since i first saw her tiny face in the breeder's photo. We brought her home at ten weeks. Since that day, our life has never been the same. These first weeks were similar to the two times in our life when we brought home a new baby. Our dream was definitely contested. It turns out Sommer will tolerate staying in her drawer at night until she does. When she woke up in the early morning hours, she decided that she needed to be with the members of the pack, and she barked and whined plaintively. Unlike a child, we never had a method to "cry out." Sommer never stopped barking and fell into exhausted sleep. Instead, she had the willpower and stamina to bark for what seemed like hours in a row — not that we had the patience to let her bark for so long. Her barking led to the awakening of the whole family, an equally unattractive prospect when in the morning we were expected by school and work. Sommer's clear preference was to be on the bed with my husband and me. However, we did not prefer this, so when she was about 10 months old, we moved her from the box to the dog bed on the floor of our floor. The bedroom, which we considered an honest compromise. Location works, until she wakes us up early in the morning by jumping on the bed. Sleep certainly remains our biggest problem since we end the first year.

Puppy Diary number 11: Mastering the holidays with a puppy

holidays with a puppy

Dear Diary,

Every year, from October 31 to January 1, our life is interspersed with special events, festivals and fun. While we, people, can understand such things as “this is Halloween, so tonight the doorbell will ring a hundred times, but there is no reason for alarm,” our puppy Sommer does not have the same ability. If only I could explain the reason and calm her fears! But, alas, the same applies to lovingly wrapped gifts under a tree. Anything on the field is fair play and a potential toy, right? And while we are doing this, I can imagine how she asks herself: “What happened to the spruce inside the house? What is this madness? It is interesting to look at the holidays from the point of view of a puppy.

When we turned the corner and headed for the last few months of the year, our family was almost frivolous from the wait. Sharing holidays with a puppy would mean a memorable moment after a memorable moment. Imagine our puppy in a Halloween costume! Playing with ribbons from discarded Christmas packaging! Tasting some thanksgiving turkey! At the same time, I realized that the holidays would be full of potential pitfalls. (Recall the dreadful visit to the emergency room that happened when Sommer took Adville's bottle for a tasty treat. No one needs to repeat this episode!). I do not need Sommer to break into a bag of chocolates for Halloween – that's for sure – and I was determined not only to enjoy the holidays with our puppy, but also to ensure its safety.

Halloween was our first stop in the holiday fight, and to be honest, it was he who terrified me. As I said before, opening the door to our house was a work of two people, since one person controls the dog, and the other welcomes our guest. The prospect of a continuous ring at the door, to put it mildly, was not attractive. And I wasn't the only one who bothered: many dogs feel bad on Halloween. According to Bark Busters, the world's largest dog training company, Halloween is a time when they hear more about the death or delusion of dogs. It makes sense, because if Halloween intends to scare or scare us, it will do the same with the puppy.

In our house, Halloween also meant guests, as our children often invited friends to dinner, followed by a treat or a scary film that caused enthusiastic shouts and screams. All this agitated energy could be an excessive stimulation for Sommer, and it did not even take into account how the doorbell rings and is dressed in costumed children screaming "trick or treat!". Chocolate is also toxic for dogs and should be avoided at all costs. When the children returned home after a ruse, I made it clear that they could unload their bags and exchange sweets, but this should be done on the table in the dining room, and not on the floor of the family room.

My goal was for the children to have fun, keeping Sommer as calm and protected as possible. Fortunately, Sommer has been around children all his life, therefore, despite the fact that children can be unpredictable, loud and aggressive in their behavior, groups of children do not bother her. However, the last thing I wanted was Sommer to get scared and run out the front door!

Sommer was able to greet the friends of the children and enjoy the dinner. As soon as the children went for a walk, I lifted the Sommer upstairs, where we rested in the main bedroom while my husband was in charge of maintaining the doors. At first she whined and walked a little, but then sat down with a chewing stick. After the hardest period of the trick or treatment had passed, Sommer and I went downstairs, and she was able to meet a random group of children at the door without incident.

The remaining holidays of the year were less insidious than Halloween, thank God! Whether it is Thanksgiving, Hanukkah, Christmas, or Boxing Day, the holidays mainly included raising puppy manners around guests and disposing of potentially toxic items. Now I have friends who close the dog in another room when they receive guests. Or they could even send the dog to someone else's house for a game or an overnight stay. And trust me, I understand! Any of the options makes sense if your dog may be overloaded with visitors or may be under the feet in the kitchen. (The only thing you do NOT need is to stumble over a dog while carrying a turkey dish on Thanksgiving Day at the guests table).

Tips for bringing a dog for Thanksgiving

bring your dog for thanksgiving

How to make your vacation stress free and safe for your puppy

Thanksgiving is the time when everyone gets together and celebrates what you are grateful for – so your dog must be involved! However, with the holiday comes a lot of excitement and chaos, which can easily overwhelm you and your dog.

There are several things that can harm a dog during the holidays, from eating on the counter to decorating. You also want to make sure that he behaves well, especially if you take him to someone else’s house. Having your dog for Thanksgiving can make your holiday a fun time for your entire family. Here are tips to help make sure everything is going as planned.

1. Make sure your dog is allowed to be present.

If you go to the home of a family or friend for Thanksgiving, make sure they are right with your dog in the first place. The owner may not be ready for the fact that he has a dog at home, or he may have fears that his own and your pets may not get along. It is better to register and make sure that your dog will be met in advance to facilitate the task.

2. Have fun before serving dinner.

Take the dog for a long walk or spend some time playing together to tire the dog before you go to lunch. Many people in one place can create a lot of restless energy that can cause stress on your dog. The last thing you want is for your dog to be overly agitated, so wearing it before it is served can help it relax.

3. Make sure your dog looks better.

You want to look better for Thanksgiving, so don’t leave your dog! Take a new trip to the groomers or take a bath time to make sure your dog looks (and smells) better.

4. Keep your dog away from food

Do not recreate the scene from the movies. Keep your dog away from food, ensuring that dishes are out of reach, or even use gates to avoid danger. With things coming in and out of ovens and stoves, the kitchen can be a dangerous place. There are also products that can be dangerous for your pet, so make sure that you serve him under the table.

5. Bring something familiar

Bring a toy or bone, or even a blanket, which your dog often uses to give your dog a comforting object in a new place. Your dog may even find a comfortable place in his crate if you are traveling with him. Otherwise, ask your owner if there is a place where your dog can relax, and thus, if everything starts to become stunning, you may have a plan B to keep things from getting out of control.

6. If it’s better to keep it at home, keep it at home.

Some dogs simply do not succeed in stressful situations or around large groups of people. If you know that your dog is anxious or stressed, do not force him into a situation he is not ready to cope with. There are many options for dogs that cannot attend Thanksgiving, from finding a nanny to planting your dog for the whole day.

Thanksgiving dog can be fun for everyone if you are ready!